Type 1 Oil Pump in Type 4 Engine

All Right!  The new CV Joints came in the mail a couple days ago, and they are in and they are quiet.  The job took only 35 minutes.  It is amazing how smooth it can go when the parts actually work and fit right.  No more junk parts.

Today, I cleaned and prepped a good used oil pump to install, hopefully tomorrow, time permitting.  When I built the new engine, I installed a brand new aftermarket camshaft and cam gear, both from Webcam.  The gear bolts onto the camshaft rather than using rivets like the original from VW.  Because the bolts heads stick out a bit further than the rivets, the oil pump needed to be ground down just a bit so that it did not hit the bolt heads.  I used a re-conditioned Type 4 oil pump, which is similar to a Type 1 pump, only the gears are internal once the pump is bolted together.  The bolts on the back side of the pump needed to be ground down. 

Here is the view of a Type 4 oil pump (Just happed to have an extra one to photograph):

You can see the four bolts on the back side that hold the pump body together.  The are the four bolts that interfere with the new cam gear bolt heads:

The Type 4 pump works well, except that once the engine heats up and the various metal parts expand, the camshaft bolt heads have been hitting the oil pump bolts.  It is not enough to seize the engine, but enough to cause vibration and noise.

The pump I prepared for installation is a Type 1 oil pump, typically used in a VW Bug motor.  It will fit the Type 4 bus engine, with a little modification for the Webcam gear and camshaft.  I had to grind some material off the back side, as well as make sure the pump body and cover were flat relative to one another.  This was accomplished with some 600 grit wet sandpaper on a very flat surface.  I used our Formica kitchen table.  Don’t tell Diana.  I made sure all the sanding mess was cleaned up before she even knew I was working on car parts in the kitchen.  I have used this same pump before, but it leaked slightly as it was not flat.  I think the sanding will work.  It required that I sand the ends of the gears as well so they don’t scrap and bind on the cover.

A Type 1 pump (pictured below) is made up of several pieces.  It has a pump body, gears, and cover.  The gears are exposed until the cover is installed, unlike the Type 4 pump.  It is a lot of work to install an oil pump in a Type 4 engine, requiring a lot of the engine parts to be removed, the engine mounts and carrier to be removed, and the engine to be supported on a jack.  It is probably 2 hours of labor.  I will let you know how it works.

Ron

(o v o)

Use Quality Parts

Recommendation:  Do not use Chinese parts.  You can use them, but expect to replace them soon.  I have found this out the hard way many times, mostly with rubber parts that only last a couple of months before deteriorating.  You’d think by now I would have learned my lesson, but being the cheapskate that I am, the temptation to save a few dollars is too hard to resist when faced with a decision to purchase the good German parts or the junky Chinese stuff.

Sometimes I get sucked in to buy the Chinese parts thinking I am buying German or Brazilian, only to realize the price was so good because the parts were made in China.

Case in Point:  I recently found a good deal on new Constant Velocity (CV) joints on Ebay.  The parts were about 25% cheaper than others I had seen elsewhere.  The picture shown on the website looked like other German CV joints I have obtained in the past. 

The CV Joints in the bus have lasted over 240,000 miles.  I replaced the joints on the right side axle about 5,000 miles ago after hearing them start to make clunking noises while on a trip to Big Sur.  I didn’t replace the left side, but made a promise to the bus to get the job done soon, hence this job.

When the new Ebay parts arrived I opened the box and immediately saw what I believed to be inferior tooling and metal used to manufacture the CV joints.  It was then that I read the label on the box, “Made in China.”  Well, I don’t have to tell you that I could tell they were made in China before I even read the label.  Disappointment set in!

Against my better judgment, I installed the CV joints (about an hour’s labor).  Installing CV joints is my least favorite job on the bus.  I would rather remove and install an engine.  CV joints are packed with thick black grease that seems to get everywhere.  I spread layers of newspaper underneath the axle and then went to work (yuck).  During the job, one of the joints came apart and several large ball bearings fell out.  It took several minutes to put it back together, clean of course.  65 minutes later the axle and new joints were back in. 

Then came the test drive, everything seemed to be fine except for the knocking noise coming from the rear axle, particularly the left side with the new CV joints. The good news is that it only knocks while under a load such as accelerating or climbing a mildly inclined driveway and not while coasting.  For those of you who have never driven a bus before, you are pretty much driving under a load all the time!  Man this sucks.

I know I should have known better than to install those pieces of trash “Made in China” car parts.  Now I have to re-do the whole thing.

Why do we do this: Export all our manufacturing to China to save on labor costs and increase our business’s profits, only to have to them send us junk? We deserve it.  Oh well, move forward.  I just ordered a new set of German CV Joints from GoWesty.  I hope they get here soon.

Happy Bus Motoring,

Ron

( o v o )

New Roof Rack

This weekend, my brother Barry helped me build a roof rack for the Bus.  Barry is an extraordinary metal fabricator and quickly cut and formed the tubular steel pieces.  The bottom of the roof rack is lined with expanded sheet metal, which is welded all the way around.  All the pieces were welded together into a one piece modular roof rack design that can be easily installed for a trip and then easily removed once the trip is done.  It fits into the existing fiberglass luggage rack that is molded into the poptop roof, and expands the cargo carrying capacity.  It will be perfect for carrying firewood, extra gas can, folding chairs, etc.  I think if we took one or more of these to a VW swap meet, they would sell easily.  Thanks Barry.  Great job!

Ron

(o v o)

New Poptop Tent

Okay, here are a couple photographs of the the new poptop tent:

Ron

(o v o)

Great Neighbors

I have the best neighbors. They put up with my on-going bus projects on a regular basis. Perhaps they even think that if the bus were gone, the property values in the neighborhood would rise for a change. One of them calls the bus my therapy. Another one calls it my baby. A third one encourages me when I have the engine sitting on the driveway for the 12th time in a year. They probably think I’m crazy. They are truly great neighbors.

This evening when I got home from work, the sun was still up and dinner was not yet ready. Diana and the boys were working on homework. I decided to head outside to begin replacing the poptop tent on the bus. I had just received the new tent in the mail yesterday and there it sat, burning a hole in the shipping box as I waited for Saturday to arrive to install it in the bus. I could wait no longer.

My poptop is a little different than the majority of those still on the road. Most still in use on Southern California roads, were manufactured by Westfalia of Germany. The Westfalia tops are recognizable because when opened, the roof tilts at an angle. From 1968 through 1973, the front was the low end, with a luggage carrier over the rear. From 1974 on, the front was the high end, with a luggage rack over the driver cab area. My top was made by ASI of Washington and sold by Riviera of Oregon (Therefore known as a ASI/Riviera top). The entire poptop goes straight up, not in a titled manner. There is a luggage carrier over the driver cab area, and a very comfortable bed for two upstairs. To replace the tent on a Westfalia top, the top has to be removed from the bus, requiring a minimum of two people to complete the job. The tent on an ASI/Riviera top can be installed with the top in place, although some disassembly of the spring mechanism is required (as easy job for one person).

Here is my thought process. I knew that as summer is coming to a close, the days are becoming shorter with the sun setting sooner. I also knew that Diana would soon have dinner on the table and my time was limited. Yet, I found it increasingly difficult to wait any longer. I could at least remove the old tent before dinner would be ready. I decided to give it a go. Even with the limited daylight left.

The old tent took about fifteen minutes to remove. After that, I began installing the new tent. About 20 minutes into the job, the boys came out and told me that dinner was ready. This meant that Diana was saying dinner was ready and sent the boys outside to deliver the message. Now Diana and I have been married for over 22 years, and there are two words I have learned in that time that make life a whole lot smoother; “Yes dear.” I stopped the job and headed inside to dinner.

After dinner, the sun was beginning to set, so I set about in completing as much of the job as possible. I worked as fast as I could, while trying to pay attention to details so the job would get done right. The sun continued to set and I soon found myself working in the dark. I retrieved a flashlight and held it in my teeth while keeping my hands free to do the work.

Picture this, Ron standing on a ladder in the dark, flashlight in his teeth, staple gun in one hand, screwdriver drill in the other, with a partially installed poptop tent on the bus. This is what my neighbor saw as he came over to investigate my latest project. I’m sure I looked very silly. What a great neighbor. He went home and quickly returned with a clip on work light and a long extension cord. The job went a whole lot easier after that, and I was finished by 8:30. I will post some picture later after the sun returns.

Two morals of this long story: Always remember, “Yes dear.” It will mean you get to keep the bus and not have to trade it in on a Honda. The second moral is, try to stay in good will with the neighbors. It will mean the difference between working in the dark and working in the light; and they may decide not to complain about all the car repairs.

Happy Bus Motoring :-)  (o v o)

Ron

Valve Seats

About 8 years ago, I was cruising along in the Bus, heading home from a Bible study. I pulled into the driveway and turned off the key and immediately felt and heard something I had never felt or heard before. Instead of winding down to a stop, the engine came to an immediate halt. It was not a loud sound, nor an abrupt feel, but something just didn’t seem right. I tried to start it up again, but there was nothing, not even a click. I tried to turn the engine over by hand but it was frozen. My mind quickly flashed through several articles I had read about a weak point in the VW Type 4 engine; valve seats.


The air-cooled Type 4 engine was used in the VW bus from 1972 through mid 1983. It was also used in the Type 4 car (a large station wagon), the Porsche 914, and a one-year-only 1976 Porsche 912e. It is a very sturdy engine, and in fact much sturdier than the Type 1 engines used in buses prior to 1972, and in all VW bugs. The main difference is in the alloy of the engine case (that’s engine block for all you Honda owners). Other differences include beefier internal parts such as crankshaft, camshaft, rods, bearings, etc. The engine case on a Type 4 engine is made of aluminum. The Type 1 engine case is an alloy of aluminum and magnesium. Magnesium is softer, more brittle, and actually burns.

(Type 4 Engine Case)

Along with the beefier parts mentioned, the Type 4 cylinder heads are noticeably sturdier. With more metal in the areas needed.

(Inside of Type 4 Cylinder Head)

Small valve is for fuel in.

Large valve is for exhaust out.

Notice the leaks evident at the bottom of each cylinder opening (top of photo)

(outside of Type 4 Cylinder Head)

Unfortunately, the Type 4 heads have a weak point in the valve seats. This is what happens (and in fact what happened in my situation in the driveway): A valve seat is a metal ring that is pressed into the intake and exhaust valve openings of the head. The metal alloy of the valve seat is steel. Heat causes most matter to expand, while cold (the absence of heat) causes that same matter to contract. A soft aluminum cylinder head expands more than the harder steel alloy of a valve seat. As the aluminum valve hole in the cylinder head expands greater than the seat that is pressed into that hole, the seat becomes loose and can actually fall out (into the cylinder – in the direction of a piston) as the valve opens to let fuel in or exhaust out. The seat causes the valve to get stuck in an open position where it is then struck by a piston, immediately seizing the engine. This can cause all sorts of other problems such as a hole in the piston and/or bent connecting rods and crankshaft.

When I tore my engine apart, I found exactly what I just described. It was the same thing I imagined while sitting in the driveway that fateful evening. The number 4 exhaust valve seat had come loose, causing the valve to be struck by the piston, causing a good sized dent in the top of the piston, as well as a bent connecting rod. The resulting repair consisted of a complete tear down of the engine to check the crankshaft and rods for straightness. It also included replacement of a rod, pistons, cylinders, and rings, bearings, and two new Spanish made AMC heads. The repair was very expensive and time consuming.

I eventually got the bus back on the road, but read somewhere (I believe it was Jake Raby) that the AMC heads are good, but that the valve seat problems remain. Jake said he has a process of installing new valve seats that are supposed to stay put. I have logged many miles since with the AMC’s with no problems, but occasionally have it in the back of my mind that someday I may be revisiting this situation, in which case I may give Jake a call. Occasionally, I turn off the engine and listen intently for that sound and feel. So far, so good.

Happy Bus Motoring!
Ron

Life in the Slow Lane

If you have ever driven a VW Bus, you know what it is to hang out in the slow lane (that's the right hand lane for drivers under 30 years old).  Buses do not get places quickly.  They just get their in style.  Sometimes, they get their after leaving a part or two behind, which has happened to me only once.  I once lost a muffler while driving home from school on the US 101 freeway  Fortunately, I knew it would be in the right hand lane when I went back to look for it.

Today I had to drive out to the Valley (that's the San Fernando Valley - the only real "The Valley") to replace a toilet at my inlaws' house.  Being that the weather was a beautiful mid 70's and sunny, and knowing I would need a vehicle with cargo holding capacity for the new toilet, I decided to take the bus.  I generally drive 60-65 mph while traveling on the freeway in the bus.  The bus will go faster, and in fact I have had up to 80 for a short time (in the Nevada Desert where the CHP has no jurisdiction), but the bus cruises perfectly between 60-65 mph.  Today, as before, people were generally in a hurry and I got passed by scores of other drivers.  Some of them had a look of displeasure on their face as if I were holding them up from arriving yesterday at their destination.  Others look and smile that smile as if perhaps they have driven a VW bus in their past.  I enjoy both looks knowing that the world needs both.  Of course I stick to the slow lane.

Traveling in the slow lane in Southern California can be a character builder.  Traffic in many areas is a steady 70-80 mph, even though the speed limit is 65.  If you let it, the slow lane can also be a place that allows you to take in the scenery and enjoy the simple pleasures of God's creation a little easier than while traveling 70-80.  Sometimes that scenery is the back of a big-rig tractor-trailer while waiting for traffic to clear in order to pass.  Speaking of passing, a tractor-trailer rig is one of the few vehicles you can actually pass with a VW bus, although sometimes they pass us.  Timing the merger of cars entering the freeway and trying to hold a constant speed can leave you holding a death grip on the steering wheel while swearing under your breath.  A few years ago, it was not uncommon for me to think ugly thoughts about others not paying attention to traffic as they merged onto the freeway.  Today, it is all part of the total package of driving a bus.  I smile and keep on moving along with the simple thought that it does not matter when I arrive at end of a trip so much as how I arrive.

Life in the slow lane can be a wonderful place, that is unless you are driving a Honda.  Keep it slow and Enjoy the Ride :-)

Reference Material

Today, I thought I would post information about several reference books I have found useful in daignosing problems and repairing those problems.  As I have no formal training in auto repair, I have had to learn by trial and error.  These books (pictured below) have been a tremendous help in keeping my bus on the road.  Of course I have still learned by trial and error and have had to re-do many repairs over the years.

Probably most useful has been the basic VW shop manual.  This one is in good shape because I recently replaced my well worn copy with a new one:

Another good resource for VW information in general is John Muir, "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive, a Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat (sic) Idiot."  Although there are not the detailed photographs of the Official Shop Manual, the step by step instructions are very easy to follow.  Mine, pictured below, is very well worn:

The Haynes Shop Manual, picture below, is a good manual with detailed photographs and easy to follow instructions.  A lot of it is a repeat of the Official Shop Manual, so I do not use it as much.  Also, it is written with a British accent:

For rebuilding engines, there is no better resource than Tom Wilson's, "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine."  The book covers every detail from part identification by year, to removal, to tear down, to build up.  It includes a chart on torque specifications, a feature that I refer to regularly.  If you own a VW and plan on repairing or rebuilding your own engine, I highly recommend this book:

If you have fuel injection and am like me with very limited knowledge of the magic of the system, then I recommend, "Bosch Fuel Injection Systems" by HP Books.  It does a great job of unraveling the mystery of all those little parts and wires.  I have a pretty good basic understanding of the Bosch fuel injection due to the information in this book, and in fact have replaced every componant in my Bus:

Of course I have read myriads of information on the Internet on subjects related to repairing and rebuilding various componants of the VW Bus so I cannot leave this excellent resource out of this blog.

Happy Bus Motoring :-)

Ron